A better solution is to find ways to lower the cost of your car insurance so that you can get the best rates on car insurance legally.

Let’s start by asking if your place of work offers group car insurance to its employees. Many companies do, and group rates can save you a fortune. If your company doesn’t offer group car insurance check with any clubs, groups or organizations you belong to; you’d be surprised at the ones that offer their members group car insurance.

Keep your car in a garage at night. Doing that simple thing can save you money each and every month.

Set it up so your premium payment is paid automatically each month out of your checking account. This will also save you money.

Ask your agent if buying (and using) a steering wheel lock will reduce your rates. Some companies gladly reduce rates for steering wheel locks and for simple devices which disengage your fuel pump unless a secret button is pressed each time you start your car.

Drive less. Many people are now using public transportation and leaving their car at home as much as possible. If you can reduce your driving to below 500 miles per month you may qualify for a rather substantial low-mileage discount.

A portion of your premium is probably based on the fact that you drive to and from work every day in rush hour traffic. If you can carpool so that you drive those miles considerably less each month then you can save money on your car insurance.

If you retire or stop driving to work for any other reason your insurance will also drop.

Drivers under 25 should stay in school and maintain good grades. A 3.0 grade average or better will earn you a rather nice Good Student Discount.

Don’t make small claims. The fewer claims you make the lower your rates will be. If you can go for even 6 months without making a claim some companies will reward you. Other companies require you to wait a year, but the point is, the fewer claims you make the better your rates on car insurance will be.

Can you afford to increase your deductible? This is probably the fastest and the easiest way to decrease your monthly premium, but the downside is you will have to come up with the amount of your deductible in cash any time you have a claim. You don’t want to make any promises you can’t keep.

The final step in getting the best rates on car insurance is to get online and find a minimum of 3 car insurance price comparison websites. Using what you have learned in this article fill out the form on all 3 websites exactly the same way. That’s important. You must put the exact same information into all 3 forms or your “comparisons” won’t actually be comparing anything, will they?

As soon as you’ve finished all of your comparisons then the rest of your “job” is a snap – simply pick the lowest-priced company and you’re done! Now you know exactly how to get the best rates on car insurance.

My personal favorite comparison website is Auto Quotes USA

“The model had been launched that very year, so even though the car was secondhand, it was in great condition,” he says. Within four months of the purchase, Martin found himself with a broken rear axle. “These mechanical problems can crop up any time, but it was only when the repair center asked me whether I had auto repair insurance that I learned that such a thing exists,” says Martin.

Many car owners are unaware of the benefits of auto repair insurance. After your car warranty expires, this type of insurance should go hand in hand with your auto insurance to protect you from large car repair bills.

How Auto Repair Insurance Works

Similar to auto insurance, an auto repair insurance policy is a contract between a vehicle owner and the car insurance company, which binds the company to pay for all repairs done on the vehicle for a fixed length of time.

Coverage varies widely from company to company and few states in the U.S. regulate auto insurance coverage. So it’s important to become familiar with auto repair insurance terms and industry requirements, while also understanding how auto repair insurance is regulated in your state.

What It Covers
A standard auto repair insurance policy typically covers the breakdown and the wear and tear of your car, although the two are not always mutually inclusive. Some companies may only offer breakdown coverage, which means they are only liable to pay for repairs necessitated by breakable parts. If you want a wear and tear policy as well, which covers parts that wear out over time, you may need to purchase that from a separate company or shop around for a car insurance company that offers both.

There are also auto repair insurance policies that cover the engine, transmission, and other parts of a vehicle through which oil flows. However, this would be least preferable in terms of coverage, since it does not include a majority of a vehicle’s components.

Bumper-to-bumper policies are also available from some car insurance companies, which cover nearly all the mechanical systems of a vehicle (from bumper to bumper). If there are any exclusions, the policy will list the parts that are not covered. For instance, policies do not cover parts like brake pads and windshield wipers. Likewise, most policies do not cover overheating resulting from a faulty radiator.

Before you buy your auto repair insurance, make sure you know exactly what is covered, as well as how much you will be paying by way of deductibles. Even if the manufacturer’s warranty has lapsed, you can still receive coverage on vehicles that have done less than 100,000 miles. But keep in mind that as your vehicle clocks up the miles, the cost of a policy will increase, as will repair costs.

A perk you’ll want to know about: if you buy a transferable policy, you can actually leverage it to increase your car’s resale value.

I highly suggest Protect Your Car Now, as they offer superb protection and world-class support.

STEP 1: Find a stable and safe place to work. You need a solid, level surface. Avoid soft ground and hills. If you are near a road, park as far from traffic as possible and turn on your emergency flashers (hazard lights).

STEP 2: Make sure that the car cannot roll. Apply the parking brake and put car in “Park” position or in first or reverse if using a standard transmission. If possible, it is a good idea to place a heavy object (such as a brick) in front of the front tire (if changing a rear tire), and vice-versa.

STEP 3: Take out the spare tire and the jack. Place the jack under the frame near the tire that you are going to change. Make sure that you place it where it will meet the metal portion of the frame.

• Many cars have molded plastic along the bottom, and if you don’t place the jack in the right spot, it will crack the plastic when you start lifting. If you’re not sure about the right place to put the jack, read your owner’s manual.
• For most modern unibody cars, there is a small notch or mark just behind the front wheel wells or in front of the rear wheel wells where the jack is intended to be placed.
• For most trucks or older cars that have a frame, look to place the jack on one of the beams of the frame just behind the front tire or in front of the rear tire.

STEP 4: Raise the jack until it is supporting, but not lifting the car. The jack should be firmly in place against the underside of the vehicle. Make sure that it is lifting straight up and down.

STEP 5: Remove the hub cap and loosen the nuts by turning counterclockwise. Don’t take them all the way off. Just break the resistance. Having the wheel on the ground means that you’re turning the nuts instead of the wheel.

• Use the wrench that came with your car or a standard cross wrench. Your wrench may have different sizes of openings on different ends. Place the right size of the wrench on the lug nut. The right size is the one that slips easily over the nut but does not rattle.
• It can take quite a lot of force to break your lug nuts free. If all else fails, you can use your body weight or stomp on the wrench (be absolutely certain you are turning it the right way).

STEP 6: Pump or crank the jack to lift the tire off the ground. You need to lift it high enough to remove the flat tire and to put the spare on it. As you lift, make sure that the car is stable. If you notice any instability, lower the jack and fix the problem before full lifting the car.

• If you notice the jack lifting at an angle or leaning, lower and reposition it so that it can lift straight up.
• Chock the tires if you notice the car starting to roll. You can use logs, large stones or other heavy, solid objects to help keep the car in place.

STEP 7: Remove the nuts the rest of the way. Turn them counter clockwise until they are loose. Repeat with all lug nuts, then remove the nuts completely.

STEP 8: Remove the tire. Place the flat tire under the vehicle so in event of jack failure the vehicle will fall on the old wheel, hopefully preventing injury. If the jack is placed on a flat, solid base, you shouldn’t have any problems.

STEP 9: Place the spare tire on the hub. Take care to align the rim of the spare tire with the wheel bolts, then put on the lug nuts.

• Tighten the nuts by hand until they are all snug. They should turn easily at first.
• Using the wrench, tighten the nuts as much as possible. To ensure the tire is balanced, don’t completely tighten the nuts one at a time. Going in a star pattern around the tire, one nut across from another, give each one a full turn until they are equally tight.
• Avoid using so much force that you risk upsetting the jack. You will tighten the lug nuts again once the car is down and there is no risk of it falling.

STEP 10: Lower the car to the ground. Do not put full weight on it yet. Finish tightening the nuts as much as possible.

STEP 11: Lower the car to the ground fully and remove the jack. Tighten the nuts again. Replace the hubcap.

STEP 12: Put the old tire in your trunk and take it to a mechanic. Small punctures can usually be repaired for less than $10. If the tire is not repairable, they can dispose of it properly and sell you a replacement.

STEP 1: Look at the tread pattern. All tires have what are called “tread wear bars”. These are small bridges that form between your treads. Look at the tread pattern and you will see the beginnings of these bars start to form between the treads, or running across the tires. As the tires wear, these bars will become flush with the tire’s tread. At this point it is time to replace the tires.

STEP 2: Check the tread by using the “penny test.” Take a penny, and place it upside down with Lincoln facing you in the center of the tread (at the thickest part of the tire).

• If you can see the very top of Lincoln’s head or the copper above it, replace the tires immediately.
• If Lincoln’s hair on the top of his head is partially visible, it is time to go shopping for tires.
• If you cannot see the hair on the top of his head (if the coin is inserted enough that the tire tread is at least as deep as Lincoln’s forehead), your tires do not need replacing yet.

TIPS

• It is a good idea to rotate your tires from front to rear in pairs. Take both front tires and move them to the rear and vice versa.
• On 4-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive cars you should replace all four tires if it is recommended in your service manual. Differences in tire diameter can permanently damage differentials.
• If you see uneven wear on a front tire, chances are that the front end is out of alignment. You should have this checked and rotate the tires to the rear if possible (some vehicles have different sizes on front than the rear). The tires from the back should be fine and the uneven tires moved to the rear will start to correct themselves.
• Tires do not wear perfectly evenly, so be sure to insert the coin at several points from the outside to the inside of your tires. Tires generally wear more on the inside but over-inflated tires will wear more in the middle.
• Test all of your tires and if possible, replace them all at the same time. Mismatched tires will not provide the same safety, performance and efficiency as a matched pair will.
• Keep your tires properly inflated.

Engine oil is very different from other kinds of oil, it is important that you select the right oil for your vehicle (see your manufacturers handbook). When shopping for oil, read the label on the oil product description. Do not experiment with any other types of oil that are used for different purposes.

Regularly changing your car’s engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep your car running well. Over time the oil breaks down naturally and your oil filter becomes clogged with contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits and type of vehicle, this may take as few as 3 months or 3,000 miles, or be as long as 20,000 miles or 24 months (consult your owner’s manual for service intervals).

After the vechile’s warrantee period expires, a number of mechanics reccommend that you change your engine oil and filter using a premium product each 7,000kms (about 4,500 miles). This practice will greatly improve your vehicles performance and significantly extend its operational life. Vinatge car owners are also more likely to be fastidious about frequency and quality of oil changes than regular drivers as replacement engines are less readily sourced (see below).

Each time you change the oil, be sure to keep a record and receipts of these purchases as evidence of regular oil changes will help to impress potential buyers when then the time comes to sell your vehicle.If you take your car to a dealer, one of the first things they ask to see are the service manuals.Amongst other things, they are looking for the frequency of oil and oil filter changes.

Conversely, a failure to change your engine oil will definately cause irrepairable damage to your engine which will eventually fail and will need to be replaced. New and reconditioned engines can be both expensive to purchase and to have installed. It is also a task better best handled by those mechanics with sound knowledge and experience in the area who are properly equipped. It can be a tricky and challenging task to replace an engine, so it can be expensive.

The car has been a topical subject for environmentalists, but in Europe today, there are grass-roots community groups that have formed to extend the life of many domestic products and machinery as a means of saving energy and resources. The extension of life for these consumer products negates the need for new production and and the materials, labour and energy needed in that process. Thus there is a valid “green” argument for changing your car oil on a regular basis.

Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and relatively inexpensive. This article will help you to learn how.

STEP 1: Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand. (Caution: it is far safer for you to commence the task when the engine has cooled down. Only work on a hot or warm engine in an emergency situation. Take the greatest of care when working with a hot engine.)

STEP 2: Before draining out the old oil, you may want to open the hood of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier because air can flow in as the crankcase drains. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the car to catch oil runoff. A number of home mechanics will read their owners manual to ensure they detect the correct plug as some engines can seem to have more than one plug.The plug can sometimes be very difficult to unscrew. In those cases, you may need to use special cold liquid products designed to assist in loosening screws and bolts. Talk to your autocare retailer about these. Where the unscrewing is proving difficult, be careful not to place undue strain or stress on your body. Its far better for a mechanic do it once and leave the plug a bit looser for you to do the next time as opposed to you injuring yourself (dont feel defeated, its quite common!). Incorrect use of force can also damage the plug itself. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. You can use a flat pan or other appropriate receptacle to collect it in. If you are working on your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a drop cloth to catch residual spillage, or you risk an oil stain on your driveway or garage. This oil will need to be disposed of properly. You should always do so in accordance with the environmental laws and regulations governing your area.Used oil can be toxic and a hazard to plants and animal life.

STEP 3: Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket (or wrench). The fit is especially important if the bolt is tight, which it shouldn’t be. If you need more leverage, an extension such as a pipe segment on your ratchet handle can help. If this type of “breaker-bar” arrangement is required it was way too tight. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used if in good condition. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it’s a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff.

• If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
• Another easy way to “save” the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.

STEP 4: Some vehicles (such as BMW, Mercedes, newer Volvos, etc) may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in resevoir and lift out the filter element itself.

STEP 5: Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back and side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. Once you get a good grip slow and steady twisting can sometimes get it to begin to spin. If you can’t get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There will be oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.

STEP 6: Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don’t forget to install a replacement gasket or washer. Start threading it with your fingers so as not to cross the threads, and it should be snug, but no need to be super-tight.

STEP 7: Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it. Go until the gasket touches, then however far it says it should be. This is usually 2/3 or 1/4 of a turn after the gasket touches but could be more. Read the specifications on the filter or box it came in. Using a cap wrench can make it easier to install per specs if the filter is in a difficult to reach location.

STEP 8: Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner’s manual, usually listed under “capacities”. Don’t always rely on the dipstick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it’s cold and settled. It’s a relative thing.

• If you hold the bottle with the spout on top it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.

STEP 9: Replace the fill cap, check around for tools and close the hood.

STEP 10: Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the parking brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren’t tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.